Billet Clutch Adjustment

Billet Clutch Adjustment

Clutch adjustment is usually done in 2 ways:

1 ) Most common method:
The most common method is via the adjustment rod, found under the dash , running from the pedal to master cylinder. Shortening this rod lowers the clutch take up /engagement point of the clutch
Lengthening the rod raises the clutch take up point.

2A/ Internally inside the bell housing on set ups running an internal slave cylinder
In general we like to see 8mm of gap from the clutch fingers to the bearing face, with the bearing fully compressed or pushed to the gearbox.
This is often referred to as 14mm of crush…
This allows for the clutch diaphragm fingers to “grow” toward the gearbox as the clutch wears

2A/ Internally inside the bell housing on set ups running an internal slave cylinder
In general we like to see 8mm of gap from the clutch fingers to the bearing face, with the bearing fully compressed or pushed to the gearbox.
This is often referred to as 14mm of crush…
This allows for the clutch diaphragm fingers to “grow” toward the gearbox as the clutch wears

By completing our custom spec sheet, we are able to assist u with this.
See our Custom Clutch Spec Sheet – Download PDF

2B/ Externally we need to ensure the clutch fork and push rod can be compressed into the slave cylinder 20mm from its resting position
In the case of a cable , lengthening the out of the cabe raises the take up / engagement point of the clutch
Shortening the outer we see the lowering of the engagement point
We again advise customers to aim to have the engagement point at 40mm off the floor.

For sintered iron billet units, additional to the above, there is additional adjustment in the unit itself

Refer to our Billet 8inch + 9 inch sintered adjustment PDF in the Essential Information links below.

Contact us for any further information or clarification

The Direct Clutch Team